The cocktail is often thought of as a purely American creation — all jazz bars, speakeasies and swagger. Yet scratch beneath the surface and you’ll find unmistakably British fingerprints on its history. Some American bartenders may throw their hands up in protest, but before the ice starts flying, let’s consider the evidence.
Gin, Grain and Georgian Excess
In the seventeenth century, London underwent a dramatic shift in drinking habits. Reduced taxes on distillation, combined with a surplus of grain, led to a surge in the production of grain spirits. Gin became cheap, plentiful and widely consumed — especially among the urban poor.
By the 1720s, London distillers were producing an astonishing 20 million gallons of spirits annually, not including illicit production. The consequences of this “Gin Craze” were immortalised by William Hogarth in his 1751 engraving Gin Lane, a stark depiction of social collapse fuelled by what became known as “Mother’s Ruin.”
Yet from these murky beginnings came something transformative. Alcohol-based bitters such as Stoughton’s Elixir — patented in 1712 — were originally sold as medicinal tonics. Whether restorative or recreational, these early bitters would become foundational components in the evolution of the cocktail.
Today, gin has long shed its dubious reputation and enjoys a full revival. No self-respecting bar would be without it. After all, classics such as the Tom Collins, Gimlet and Martini would be nothing without gin at their heart.
The American Claim
America often claims ownership of the cocktail’s rise to prominence, and with good reason. In 1862, Jerry Thomas published The Bar-Tender’s Guide, the first book to include a dedicated section of cocktail recipes. Thomas has since been hailed as the “Father of American Bartending.”
However, it is worth noting that Thomas worked in London before writing his book. Who is to say that London’s drinking culture didn’t influence his craft? Whatever the case, his contribution to codifying cocktail culture is undeniable.
Britain’s Own Cocktail Literature
In 1869, Britain published its first cocktail book: Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks by William Terrington. The opening recipe — a Gin Cocktail made with brandy or gin, ginger syrup, aromatic bitters and water — demonstrated that British bartenders were more than capable of innovation.
The book also included recipes by Britain’s first celebrity chef, Alexis Benoit Soyer, whose drinks had appeared earlier in Thomas’s guide. The transatlantic exchange of recipes was already well underway.
As American tourists began visiting London in greater numbers, cocktail bars flourished. British bartenders created new drinks that often travelled back to the United States, only to reappear in Europe later branded as “American.”
The Savoy and the Golden Age
By the early twentieth century, the term “American Bar” was firmly established in London. One of the most iconic was at The Savoy Hotel.
Among its most celebrated bartenders was Ada Coleman, affectionately known as “Coley.” Recruited from Claridge’s, she became one of the first female celebrity bartenders. Working alongside Ruth Burgess, the pair were dubbed “Kitty and Coley” by the press.
Coleman’s enduring legacy is the Hanky Panky — a mix of gin, sweet vermouth and Fernet-Branca — created for actor Sir Charles Hawtrey. Upon tasting it, he reportedly exclaimed, “This is the real hanky-panky!” and cocktail history was made.
When the 18th Amendment ushered in Prohibition in the United States, bartenders and wealthy American tourists flocked to London. During this era, Harry Craddock rose to prominence at The Savoy’s American Bar. Though celebrated as an American bartender, Craddock was in fact born near Stroud, Gloucestershire. After decades in the United States, he returned to Britain and published the legendary The Savoy Cocktail Book in 1930 — a collection of 2,000 recipes that remains a cornerstone of mixology literature.
A Shared Heritage
So, is the cocktail American or British? The truth is more nuanced. Like many great cultural creations, its origins are intertwined. Britain provided the gin, bitters and early drinking traditions; America refined, codified and popularised the form.
In today’s cocktail renaissance, we are perhaps less concerned with ownership and more interested in celebration. Bars around the world honour both traditions — and continue to innovate.
As for me, all this talk of history has left me rather parched. Time to switch on the bar lights, reach for the shaker and mix something suitably spirited. Cheers. 🥂
