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Drink Tea and Carry On

Tea is a great British tradition. In times of crisis, we reach to put the kettle on. It is tea that we brew to ease the pain of a broken heart, dampen the effects of a shock, numb the pain of loss and calm frayed nerves. Tea has seen us through war, peace, joy and sadness and it is undeniably the nation’s drink of choice. Whilst chain coffee shops continue to spring up on the high street with their sentiment of froth over filling, and whilst we may all lap up their exotic offerings of air-filled milk foam and a dash of coffee, tea remains our true drink of choice.

During wartime, there was an even greater need to pop the kettle on and take comfort in a trusty cup of tea. When the Second World War broke out, there could be no doubt about the importance of tea to the British people. Many leading figures have spoken of the restorative properties of tea. According to journalist George Orwell, tea is one of the mainstays of civilisation, whilst William Gladstone noted, “If you are depressed, it will cheer you.” Even today, in times of frothy coffee and flavoured lattes, nothing can rival the ritual of tea making. Tea has seen many a Briton through a crisis, and I have always followed comedian Billy Connolly’s advice: “Never trust a man who, when left alone in a room with a tea cosy, doesn’t try it on.”

The importance of tea was acknowledged by the government during both World Wars. During the Second World War, drastic action was taken to safeguard this essential morale-booster. Just two days after war broke out, the government took control of all tea stocks and ordered that the vast reserves stored in London be dispersed to warehouses outside the capital in case of bombing.

In 1940, when enemy blockades prevented ships from getting through, the Ministry of Food introduced a ration of 2oz of tea per person per week for those over the age of five. For a nation of tea drinkers, 2oz was not a lot – only enough for two or three weakly brewed cups a day.

George Orwell later published an essay called A Nice Cup of Tea in the Evening Standard newspaper, listing his eleven ‘golden rules’ for tea making. His advice included using water that is still at the point of boiling in order to make the strongest brew from the least tea, helping the 2oz ration stretch as far as possible.

For those who still struggled to make the ration last, tea could be extended with dried blackberry leaves, known as blackberry leaf tea.

Blackberry Leaf Tea

This traditional British recipe for making tea from the dried young leaves of a blackberry (bramble) bush was popular in wartime Britain.

When picking blackberry leaves for drying, select the youngest green leaves. Remove them from the spiny mid-rib and chop roughly. Arrange on kitchen towel and place in direct sunlight for an afternoon to dry. Alternatively, arrange on baking trays and place in an airing cupboard for up to five days. Once dry, store the leaves in a sealed jar.

To make the tea, place a teaspoonful of dried leaves per person into a warmed teapot. Pour over boiling water and leave to infuse for 5 minutes. Strain into a teacup and sweeten to taste.

Roasted Dandelion Root Coffee

If you were a coffee drinker in wartime Britain, it may have been some comfort that coffee was not initially rationed. However, as the war progressed, it became increasingly difficult to obtain. Many turned instead to roasted dandelion root coffee.

This drink closely resembles coffee in flavour and body when brewed properly, and it is a good use of the dandelions that spring up around the garden. Look for the biggest, thickest clumps of dandelion leaves, as these are usually fed by a large root, and dig them up.

There are no fixed quantities – the more roots you collect, the more coffee you will have to roast.

Preparing the Roots

Place the roots in a bucket of water and agitate with your hands until the water becomes muddy. Pour off the water and repeat until it runs clear. Scrub away any remaining soil.

Cut the roots into chunks with a large kitchen knife. Wash again thoroughly to avoid gritty coffee. Chop coarsely or pulse briefly in a food processor until they resemble coffee granules.

Roasting the Roots

Spread the chopped roots on a baking sheet. Roast in a moderate oven at 160°C (140°C fan, gas mark 3) for 2–3 hours, leaving the oven door slightly ajar so moisture can escape. Stir frequently with a wooden spatula to ensure even roasting.

As the roots dry, they will shrink and darken from golden to a rich coffee colour. Take care not to burn them. Once cooled, store in glass jars.

Making the Coffee

Use 1 level tablespoon of roasted dandelion root per 225ml of boiling water. Adjust quantities to taste.

Place the roasted roots and water in a saucepan and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes until you have a rich, coffee-coloured brew. Serve hot with milk and sugar, or to suit your taste.

Tip: This coffee is particularly good made entirely with milk and sweetened with honey.

If you are not feeling inspired to dig up dandelion roots or pluck blackberry leaves for your daily brew, you must at least admire the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the wartime kitchen front.


If you want to sample any of these recipes come along to the Dig for Victory Show on 13th and 14th June 2015, and see the cookery demonstrations where Wartime Mock Recipes are the order of the day. http://www.digforvictoryshow.com/

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