Preserving food by means of pickling is an ancient tradition and, by the Middle Ages, it was a well-established practice. Medieval households were keenly aware of the need to preserve seasonal provisions in order to guard against long, harsh winters, famine and warfare.
Today, the mention of pickles conjures up modern ideas of pickled onions or gherkins preserved in jars of spiced vinegar. However, in the past, vegetables and meats were often pickled in honey, sugar syrups or, more commonly, in a simple saltwater solution. Pretty much anything and everything would be preserved in every way possible.
Whilst immersing fresh vegetables and other foods in a liquid salt brine was common in medieval Europe, the term “pickle” did not come into use in England until the late Middle Ages. The English word pickle derives from the Middle English pikel, first recorded around 1400, meaning “a spicy sauce or gravy served with meat or fowl.” This is linked to the Middle Dutch word pekel, meaning a solution such as spiced brine for preserving and flavouring food.
In my opinion, no cheeseboard is complete without a healthy selection of pickles, and a ploughman’s lunch is simply not worthy of its name without a good, crunchy pickled onion. Being somewhat of a pickle enthusiast puts me in notable company, as prominent pickle lovers throughout history included Emperors Julius Caesar and Tiberius, King John, Queen Elizabeth I, Samuel Pepys and Napoleon.
It is interesting to note how pickles are now considered merely an accompaniment to a meal, whereas in times when winters were long and fresh produce was scarce, the winter diet consisted largely of pickled foods in one form or another. Pickled fish, vegetables and fruits, as well as salted and smoked meats, were made with pride, dedication and skill in the household kitchen.
The industrious housewife would brew beer, cider, mead and wine, while laying down preserves and pickles for the future. Larders and stillrooms were filled with carefully stored provisions. Households were self-contained and largely self-sufficient.
With the rise of industry came railways, making fresh fish widely available and signalling the decline of fish pickling. The development of canning dealt another heavy blow to traditional pickling, and refrigeration enabled mass production — nearly sounding its death knell. While modern food technology has enhanced our diet, mass production has also led to monotony.
Looking back at historical pickling recipes opens up a world of possibilities beyond modern staples such as beetroot. From fourteenth-century recipes for a pickle called Compost, to Tudor pickled mushrooms and Victorian recipes for preserving everything from sheep’s brains to damsons, culinary history offers rich inspiration.
Medieval Style Pickled Salad: Compost
This is a modern interpretation of a fourteenth-century medieval pickled root vegetable salad known as Compost, originally found in The Forme of Cury. The name may sound unusual, but the flavour is surprisingly delightful.
Ingredients
- 600g carrots, sliced
- 3–4 pears, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
- 6 stems lovage, finely chopped (or celery)
- 100g radishes, sliced
- 200g turnips, thinly sliced
- 1 tsp rock salt
- 6 tbsp cider vinegar
- 2 tsp ground ginger
- 4 threads saffron
- 750ml white wine
- 113g runny honey
- 1 tbsp mustard powder
- 170g raisins
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- ½ tbsp fennel seeds
- ½ tsp ground anise seed
Method
Boil the carrots, turnips and lovage in water for four minutes, then add the pears and radishes. Cook until tender and drain well.
Spread the vegetables on a clean tea towel and sprinkle with salt. Allow to cool completely.
Place the cooled vegetables in a large non-metallic bowl and cover with vinegar, ginger and saffron. Cover and leave overnight.
The following morning, combine the vegetables with the raisins and fennel seeds. Transfer to a sterilised glass preserving jar.
In a saucepan, bring the honey, remaining spices and wine to the boil, skimming until clear. Remove from heat and pour over the vegetables. Seal immediately.
Store refrigerated for at least a week before eating. The result is fragrant, sweet, gently spiced and nothing like the name suggests.
Elizabethan Pickled Mushrooms
Adapted from The Whole Body of Cookery (1661), this recipe offers a taste of Tudor pickling. Delicious served with mature cheese and crusty bread.
Ingredients
- 250g closed cup mushrooms
- 480ml water
- 1 tsp rock salt
- 1 tsp white peppercorns
- 4 whole cloves
- 1 thin slice fresh galingale (or galangal)
- 1 thin slice fresh ginger
- 3 tsp ground nutmeg
- 180ml white wine
- 50ml cider vinegar
Method
Wipe mushrooms clean with a damp cloth (do not wash).
Place water in a saucepan, add half the salt and mushrooms, and bring to the boil. As soon as boiling begins, drain immediately and place in a sterilised jar.
Add spices and remaining salt. Pour over the wine and vinegar, topping up with additional vinegar if needed. Shake well to distribute spices.
Store in a cool, dark place for four days before opening.
Family Favourite Damson Pickle
A Victorian family recipe that improves with age and keeps for years. Perfect with game pies, casseroles, cheeses or cold meats.
Ingredients
- 4lbs (2kg) damsons
- 3lbs (1.5kg) Demerara sugar
- ½ pint (300ml) vinegar
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 4 cloves
Method
Place cinnamon and cloves in a muslin bag and put into a saucepan with sugar and vinegar. Boil for 10 minutes, then remove spices.
Add damsons and boil gently for 10 minutes, taking care not to crush the fruit.
Transfer to a sterilised jar and seal.
Pickling is an art worth mastering. Once you have tasted the sweet, sour, rich and tantalising notes of a homemade pickle, there is no turning back — shop-bought will never quite compare.
