Tea is a great British tradition. In times of crisis, we reach to put the kettle on. It is tea that we brew to ease the pain of a broken heart, dampen the effects of a shock, numb the pain of loss and calm frayed nerves. Tea has seen us through war, peace, joy and sadness and it is undeniably the nation’s drink of choice. Whilst chain coffee shops continue to spring up on the high street with their sentiment of froth over filling, and whilst we may all lap up their exotic offerings of air-filled milk foam and a dash of coffee, tea remains our true drink of choice. During wartime, there was an even greater need to pop the kettle on and take comfort in a trusty cup of tea. When the Second World War broke out, there could be no doubt about the importance of tea to the British people. Many leading figures have spoken of the restorative properties of tea. According to journalist George Orwell, tea is one of the mainstays of civilisation, whilst William Gladstone noted, “If you are depressed, it will cheer you.” Even today, in times of frothy coffee and flavoured lattes, nothing can rival the ritual of tea making. Tea has seen many a Briton through a crisis, and I have always followed comedian Billy Connolly’s advice: “Never trust a man who, when left alone in a room with a tea cosy, doesn’t try it on.” The importance of tea was acknowledged by the government during both World Wars. During the Second World War, drastic action was taken to safeguard this essential morale-booster. Just two days after war broke out, the government took control of all tea stocks and ordered that the vast reserves stored in London be dispersed to warehouses outside the capital in case of bombing. In 1940, when enemy blockades prevented ships from getting through, the Ministry of Food introduced a ration of 2oz of tea per person per week for those over the age of five. For a nation of tea drinkers, 2oz was not a lot – only enough for two or three weakly brewed cups a day. George Orwell later published an essay called A Nice Cup of Tea in the Evening Standard newspaper, listing his eleven ‘golden rules’ for tea making. His advice included using water that is still at the point of boiling in order to make the strongest brew from the least tea, helping the 2oz ration stretch as far as possible. For those who still struggled to make the ration last, tea could be extended with dried blackberry leaves, known as blackberry leaf tea. Blackberry Leaf Tea This traditional British recipe for making tea from the dried young leaves of a blackberry (bramble) bush was popular in wartime Britain. When picking blackberry leaves for drying, select the youngest green leaves. Remove them from the spiny mid-rib and chop roughly. Arrange on kitchen towel and place in direct sunlight for an afternoon to dry. Alternatively, arrange on baking trays and place in an airing cupboard for up to five days. Once dry, store the leaves in a sealed jar. To make the tea, place a teaspoonful of dried leaves per person into a warmed teapot. Pour over boiling water and leave to infuse for 5 minutes. Strain into a teacup and sweeten to taste. Roasted Dandelion Root Coffee If you were a coffee drinker in wartime Britain, it may have been some comfort that coffee was not initially rationed. However, as the war progressed, it became increasingly difficult to obtain. Many turned instead to roasted dandelion root coffee. This drink closely resembles coffee in flavour and body when brewed properly, and it is a good use of the dandelions that spring up around the garden. Look for the biggest, thickest clumps of dandelion leaves, as these are usually fed by a large root, and dig them up. There are no fixed quantities – the more roots you collect, the more coffee you will have to roast. Preparing the Roots Place the roots in a bucket of water and agitate with your hands until the water becomes muddy. Pour off the water and repeat until it runs clear. Scrub away any remaining soil. Cut the roots into chunks with a large kitchen knife. Wash again thoroughly to avoid gritty coffee. Chop coarsely or pulse briefly in a food processor until they resemble coffee granules. Roasting the Roots Spread the chopped roots on a baking sheet. Roast in a moderate oven at 160°C (140°C fan, gas mark 3) for 2–3 hours, leaving the oven door slightly ajar so moisture can escape. Stir frequently with a wooden spatula to ensure even roasting. As the roots dry, they will shrink and darken from golden to a rich coffee colour. Take care not to burn them. Once cooled, store in glass jars. Making the Coffee Use 1 level tablespoon of roasted dandelion root per 225ml of boiling water. Adjust quantities to taste. Place the roasted roots and water in a saucepan and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes until you have a rich, coffee-coloured brew. Serve hot with milk and sugar, or to suit your taste. Tip: This coffee is particularly good made entirely with milk and sweetened with honey. If you are not feeling inspired to dig up dandelion roots or pluck blackberry leaves for your daily brew, you must at least admire the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the wartime kitchen front. If you want to sample any of these recipes come along to the Dig for Victory Show on 13th and 14th June 2015, and see the cookery demonstrations where Wartime Mock Recipes are the order of the day. http://www.digforvictoryshow.com/

Trendy super foods such as avocado, coconut oil, kale and chia seeds may be the in-thing to be seen eating whilst sipping on a freshly squeezed vegetable juice, but many of the old-fashioned foods that have fallen from the grace of the modern dining table are just as virtuous as a turmeric latte made with coconut milk. Whether it’s down to their acquired taste or association with wartime, poverty, awful school dinners or bad home-cooking, there are many health-enhancing foods that we consumed decades ago that have become unfashionable or are hard to get hold of nowadays. Tapioca Pudding Yes, I must confess that I do not hold any love for this old-fashioned dessert. Throughout my childhood I referred to it as frogspawn, although I have heard it called eyeball pudding, and I must admit that whenever I see it or think of it, I remember being forced to eat it as a child at nursery. Tapioca pudding was most certainly back of the queue when looks were given out and it has a distinctive taste and texture. Indeed, this aesthetically displeasing dish has been dubbed as “Britain’s most hated school pudding” and I would certainly give it my vote. However, be that as it may, it may be time to give tapioca another try as it is an old-fashioned super food. Gluten-free and low in fat, tapioca contains an impressive array of healthy carbohydrates, proteins and essential vitamins and minerals, including B vitamins, iron, calcium and selenium. As I can’t stand the thought of the pudding, I may have to try it in bubble tea. Cottage Cheese Forget the terrible 70’s recipes of stuffing pineapples with cottage cheese or making strawberry and cottage cheese salads and cast away thoughts of retro fad diets, because plain unadulterated cottage cheese deserves to have its praises sung. Indeed cottage cheese is a super food, being extremely high in protein but low in calories and sugar. It should definitely take its place in the super food hall of fame as being a good source of potassium, a fantastic source of protein, and a nice affordable food, unlike some of our super trendy food fads. Applesauce No, I haven’t lost the plot, apple sauce is a super food, well it is at least more super than agave nectar. Pop into any health food shop and you’ll be presented with an array of alternative sweeteners that are all packaged up as superfood sugar substitutes. They sound natural and wonderful; however, things such as agave nectar contain more calories per tablespoon than boring old granulated sugar, as well as high amounts of fructose, which in excess can harm liver function and promote obesity. So if you are looking to move away from refined sugar, my advice is don’t reach for the agave nectar. Instead try sweetening your yogurt, ice cream or rice pudding with some home-made applesauce. Unsweetened applesauce provides you with a natural sweet taste and will also give you a good dose of fiber and vitamins. Prunes Yes, they’re not exactly glamorous looking, but they are a good source of fiber that can help keep you regular. But before you start thinking about old ladies sitting in decrepit seafront hotels sipping tepid tea and eating a bowl of tinned prunes for breakfast, you must consider their thoroughly modern super food credentials. Packed with anthocyanins, a family of anti-inflammatory, anti-carcinogenic antioxidants that can help fight obesity, diabetes and even heart disease, prunes are naturally sweet and make a great natural sweetener in baking recipes, smoothies and puddings. Aspic Jelly The craze for coating almost everything you can think of in aspic jelly from asparagus to prawns, Fanny Cradock-style, was at its height in the 1960’s and 1970’s. At that time, savoury jellied creations were a common sight in restaurants and at dinner parties. I have even seen recipes for set tomato soup immortalized in aspic jelly as well as cold mutton and even mussels. Whilst we may turn our nose up at some of these garish aspic jelly creations and wonder why they ever achieved popularity, aspic is actually quite the health food. Its high gelatin content is the wonder ingredient in today’s trendy bone broths that are being promoted as superfoods. Indeed aspic may help support the digestive system, boost collagen levels in the skin, strengthen hair and nails, and improve joint health. Marrows The old-fashioned marrow that used to get baked, pickled and made into jam seems to have been pushed off our culinary tables by the smaller and more aesthetically pleasing courgette. Years of bad cooking means that marrows have become considered bland, watery, stodgy, tasteless and sometimes bitter. Prepared correctly, however, they are delicious and bursting with nutrients, from beta-carotene and vitamin C to iron and fibre. Ox Tongue Sliced ox tongue for sandwiches is not really that popular today, which is a pity because it is a forgotten super food. Protein-packed tongue is a particularly rich source of essential minerals like iron and zinc, which many of us lack in our modern diets, as well as immune system-boosting choline and folate (vitamin B12). Sprats So before sitting down with a detox smoothie and bowl of pomegranate quinoa, just consider that a few sprats might be just the nutritional boost you need. An oily fish that is now classified as sustainable, the sprat is rich in high-quality protein and beneficial omega-3 fatty acids. Plus, by eating the bones, you get a hit of calcium to support the health of your joints.